REDEFINING LUXURY

9 Questions for Chef Florencia Montes

By Sarah-Linda Forrer.

In our 9 Questions Interview Series, I sit down with chefs, food lovers and hospitality professionals I admire to talk about food and the culinary world. 

I try to get a glimpse into the minds of those shaping the way we eat, through their memories, opinions and lessons around food. What has shaped their approach to gastronomy, and where do they think the future of food is going?

In this edition, I talk with Florencia Montes, Chef and co-owner of restaurant Onice* in Nice, that she established with her partner, Italian chef Lorenzo Ragni. Originally from Argentina, she has lived and learned in the kitchens of Septime*, Fäviken** and Eleven Madison Park***. She was Head Chef at the famous Mirazur*** when I initially got in touch with her. I finally met her and Lorenzo in person when I had dinner at Onice*, shortly after its opening. Needless to say, it was incredible! And, they are so lovely together.

Florencia is a force of nature, receiving a Michelin Star for Onice in 2024 while giving birth that same year. I admire her dedication to excellence and sustainability, and the way she relentlessly creates and innovates with her Carte Blanche menu. 
"The image should never overshadow the essential: the pleasure of taste."

1. What is your "Madeleine de Proust"?

Dulce de leche.


It immediately brings back the taste of my childhood. We eat it with everything: at breakfast, on birthdays, during gatherings… It’s the flavor those moments.
I still eat it, though less often, as it’s hard to find here. But whenever someone travels to Argentina and brings me back alfajores (various types of pastries made in Latin America and Spain) or other treats, I’m the happiest person in the world.

2. Is there a table code or etiquette that you prefer to ignore?

Here at the restaurant, we don’t use tablecloths. We try to follow a certain protocol, but always with the idea of not disturbing our guests.
If service should be done from the right but the guest is turned to the left in the middle of a conversation, we adapt. The main thing is that they have a good time.


As for the choice of tableware and decoration, we select only what we like. It’s not about being confined to rigid traditions but about creating a pleasant atmosphere for both our guests and ourselves.
We try to remove unnecessary details and focus on what truly matters. If the guest enjoys their time, then we are happy too.

3. If you could invite anyone to dinner, who would it be? And what would you cook for them?

My family and friends, quite simply.
What matters is sharing a good moment with the right people. I would cook them the menu we currently offer at Onice.
My grandmother visited last year and even helped us in the kitchen peel fava beans. After all, you have to earn your dinner!

4. Is there a food trend you think should disappear? And another one you wish existed?

For us, the most important thing in cooking is taste. Before thinking about plating or making something "Instagrammable," we always seek depth and lasting flavors.
Of course, presentation matters, especially in gastronomy, as we eat with our eyes too. But the image should never overshadow the essential: the pleasure of taste. I wish this approach were more widespread.

"Cooking is an essential part of French culture, not just for chefs, but for everyone. This immersion profoundly shaped my way of working and viewing cuisine."

5. Has there been an experience that changed your approach to cooking or food in general?

Moving to France ten years ago was a turning point, both in my career and my personal life.


At first, I came here to do a simple apprenticeship before returning to work at a Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco. In the end, I stayed.
Here, I discovered an incredible variety of products, a rigorous and demanding gastronomic world that I had never experienced before.
Cooking is an essential part of French culture, not just for chefs, but for everyone. This immersion profoundly shaped my way of working and viewing cuisine.

6. In your opinion, is there a small change that could make a big difference if adopted by everyone?

Fighting against food waste.
At our restaurant, we chose to offer a "carte blanche" menu to optimize product use. We work with whole animals, we use every part of vegetables—from peels to stems. Nothing goes to waste. Even fats are collected for reuse.
If everyone paid a little more attention to this, the impact would be huge.

7. Is there an ingredient that should no longer be used?

We are very inspired by Japanese cuisine and use certain imported products, like kombu, miso, or shoyu. We are aware of the carbon footprint of these imports.
That’s why we try to produce some things ourselves, such as miso and shoyu. We still allow ourselves a few "little luxuries," but overall, we prioritize local products.

8. Are you an epicurean? 

I love eating, I love good food, it’s one of life’s greatest pleasures.
I also love traveling, spending time with my family and friends.
Living between the sea and the mountains here in Nice, in touch with nature, is a precious balance. It’s not always easy when running a business, but it’s essential.

9. What is true luxury for you?

Sleeping! [Florencia and Lorenzo had a baby last year]

And beyond that, true luxury is quality time spent with my loved ones.

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