REDEFINING LUXURY

9 Questions for the Food Freelancer Mateusz Ulman

By Sarah-Linda Forrer

In our "9 Questions" interview series, we sit down with chefs, food lovers, and hospitality professionals we admire to talk about food and the culinary world. Through their personal memories, unique perspectives, and the experiences that have shaped their approach to gastronomy, these interviews offer a glimpse into the minds of those shaping the way we eat.

Mateusz Ulman is a Polish pastry chef renowned for his innovative and visually striking creations. He has gained significant attention for his unique pastries, which he frequently showcases on his Instagram account. Mateusz's work emphasizes creativity and aesthetics, often experimenting with traditional pastry forms to produce contemporary designs. He has crafted menus for establishments like Cult in Paris, offering a diverse range of pastries and brunch items. His dedication to the craft and his distinctive approach have made him a notable figure in the pastry community.
"Baking brings happiness to everyday people."

1. WHAT IS YOUR "MADELEINE DE PROUST"?

It’s a special cake that no longer exists. My great-grandmother used to make it, and I’ve tried many times to recreate it, but I can’t. I don’t know how she did it. It is called Raffaello, a kind of cake with coconut flakes and other ingredients.

This cake brings me back to my childhood, yet there’s no way to return to that moment in time. But it remains such a beautiful memory.

I remember it had a sponge cake base, some kind of crème pâtissière, and a specific layer of unusual crackers. I don’t know exactly what they were. Maybe my memory isn’t accurate because I was very young, around eight or nine years old. On top, there was a thick layer of caramelized coconut. Honestly, it was the best cake ever.

I’ve tried to recreate it, but it’s never quite the same. There are similar cakes around, but none capture that exact taste. I even have a thick notebook of my great-grandmother’s recipes, but unfortunately, this cake isn’t in it. There are recipes for a beautiful honey cake, which I actually baked a few days ago, and her famous tartlets, but not this one.

Maybe that’s for the best. Our taste buds evolve, and maybe if I had it now, it wouldn’t be as magical as I remember. In the end, it stays in my mind as a perfect memory.

2. IS THERE A TABLE CODE OR dining etiquette THAT YOU PREFER TO IGNORE?

I think we’re moving away from strict dining etiquette a little bit, especially in restaurants. The only rule I care about is that people are on time, everything else is not important. I don’t like overly rigid dining experiences, whether at home or in a restaurant. I want people to feel free, comfortable, and at ease, whether they’re visiting for the first time or an old friend.

Regarding restaurant etiquette, I dislike places where you’re required to dress up just to have dinner. There are a few like that in Poland, and they’re not my style. I prefer restaurants where you can be yourself, where the atmosphere is relaxed rather than formal. I think many people feel the same way, we no longer enjoy being in stiff, overly formal environments.

Of course, I respect that some places maintain those traditions for a reason, and they serve a particular kind of experience. I respect this very much. But personally, I prefer a more relaxed setting where people can truly enjoy their meal.

3. If you could invite anyone for dinner, who would it be? And what would you make for them? 

Scarlett Johansson. I would cook anything for her, anything at all. It doesn’t matter if you asked me this question 20 years ago or today; my answer would still be the same.

I think I would make something very Polish: pierogi. Everyone loves pierogi. It is polish dumplings, filled with white cheese, lots of bacon, caramelized onions, and a tomato purée sauce. These dumplings are my favourite. I would cook this typical polish dish because I would like to show her my soul, my Polish soul.

If I were cooking for a friend, I might go for something Italian or different. But for her, it would definitely be pierogi—to share a piece of my culture and roots.

"Eating well isn’t just about taste; it’s about taking time to savour the moment."

4. What are you secretly hoping becomes a new trend in the food scene? And what do you hope will disappear? 

I wouldn’t say I hope for it, but I predict that cakes will make a comeback, especially in my field. There was a time when cakes weren’t as appreciated; people focused more on viennoiserie. Right now, viennoiserie is still huge, but I see a shift. I think layered cakes and classic, old-school cakes will become popular again in the next couple of years. I’m already seeing small signs of this trend. I think this is going to be happening for sure in the next two years.

What I would love to be done with is the use of artificial ingredients. I hate them. Many bakeries use strange sprays and artificial decorations, and one of the worst trends is the overuse of dried flowers. People sprinkle dried rose petals on cakes, but they’re inedible! They don’t add to the taste, they’re hard to chew, and frankly, they look terrible. I see this trend everywhere, especially in the U.S. and Poland, and I just don’t understand it.

I love cakes that are honest, pure, and full of good ingredients. I think one reason cakes lost their popularity is that people became more conscious of sugar intake, which I completely understand. But it’s about balance. Avoid excessive sugar in your daily diet, avoid drinking soda, but when you do indulge, have a proper, well-made cake with a coffee and truly enjoy it.

Another reason people bake less is simply time. We live faster-paced lives, and baking a great cake, especially a layered one, takes time. You need to prepare multiple things, assemble them, let them set. These days, people grab and go, which is so sad. Hardworking people especially don’t have the time for themselves and for celebrating and enjoying.

5. Do you have an experience that changed your view of food or your way of cooking?

I had two experiences that shaped the way I see food.

First, I trained as a chef in Poland, but the culinary education system here is quite poor compared to places like Denmark or Norway. After finishing school, I worked in a hotel, which was low-level, then moved through other same type of jobs. At 21, I applied for a position at Biały Królik (White Rabbit) in Gdynia. The head chef had worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK and Norway. He was a tough personality, but highly skilled.

Working there exposed me to fine dining, high-quality ingredients, and a rigorous work ethic. That experience shifted my perspective on food. I finally understood what it meant to cook at the highest level, how important it is to work with the best ingredients. I've also learned a lot when it comes to professional Chef skills and professional etiquette. At the time, I wanted to dedicate my entire life to fine dining.

But the second experience changed that. I moved to Denmark to continue working in fine dining, but Covid hit, and I couldn’t work in restaurants. The only job available was in a bakery. That turned out to be a blessing. I found myself in baking and pastry. It made me realize that fine dining kitchens, despite their prestige, are often toxic, high-pressure environments. I once loved the adrenaline, but looking back, I see how abusive the industry can be. Baking, on the other hand, brings happiness to everyday people. I love that. It gives me a different kind of fulfilment and it really changed my perspective.

6. Is there a small change that everyone could make that would make a big difference? 

We make so many small decisions every day, and they add up. Even something as simple as deciding not to smoke a cigarette today can make a big difference in the future.

It doesn’t always have to be a grand gesture. Sometimes, just deciding to let go of a bad day instead of dwelling on it is enough. That small shift in mindset can bring peace.

Even tiny acts, like recycling properly, can have a larger impact than we realize. You can actually make your planet safer by doing small things.

7. Is there one ingredient you think that you should actually stop using but you can't or you don't want to? 

I think that would be salt. I'm using salt quite a lot. But I can’t stop.

That said, I don’t think I overuse any ingredient. I’m pretty balanced in my cooking now.

8. Do you think you're an Epicurean and what does it mean to you?

I think I am, at least when it comes to food. I really care about sourcing good ingredients. For example, I don’t buy eggs from the supermarket; I get them from my neighbour.

Food is a true pleasure for me. I love hosting guests and making sure they enjoy the experience. Eating well isn’t just about taste; it’s about taking time to savour the moment. When it comes to food, I would say I really care about what I'm eating, where I'm eating, how I'm spending this time, because this time is very valuable for me.

9. What is the ultimate luxury for you?

For me, luxury would be like a slow breakfast in the morning. Taking time with my wife, just being together.

Yesterday, I told her, “Right now, we have a pretty luxurious life.” She’s pregnant, and we had this moment in the middle of the day where we did nothing, just spent time at home. After lunch, we played cards together. It was so simple, yet so beautiful.

That’s true luxury: having and sharing time with the people you love. And at the same time, if you could share this moment with some good food, that would be my ultimate pleasure for sure. Yes.

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